SEWARD IN 1915
SEWARD IN 1915
by Doug Capra © 2018
“I now hang high
above the town and harbor, writing these notes.”
“Everywhere about they are now blasting out
the stumps to put in the foundations for houses,” he wrote. “As I walked
through the valley I heard ten blasts of dynamite. The explosions followed one
another like the fire of artillery, and roots, rocks and dirt filled the air.”
Frank G. Carpenter had a writer’s
eye for detail – which he recorded during a 1915 visit to Seward. Born in
Mansfield, Ohio in 1855, he traveled the world as a journalist and photographer
and wrote a series of geography books. He worked for the Cleveland Leader, the
American Press Association, and the New York World. By 1888 Carpenter was known
enough to finance a trip around the world by selling a weekly syndicated column
to several periodicals about life abroad. He later traveled tens of thousands
of miles through Central, North and South America, Asia, and Africa. He was a
member of the Royal Geographic Society, the National Press Club, and many
scientific societies. He married Joanna Condit in 1883, settled in Washington,
D.C., and had two children. His real estate investments made him a millionaire.
In 1912 after graduating from Smith College, his daughter Frances (1890-1972)
accompanied him on his journeys as a secretary and photographer, later
co-authoring some of his books. Carpenter eventually collected his travel
writings into a series of geography texts that became standards in American
schools for forty years. He died in Nanking, China in 1924 at age 69 on his
third trip around the world.
Seward
had been named its terminus when Frank G. Carpenter arrived here to write about
the new Government Railroad. The town had experienced an economic boost with
tremendous growth and expected the prosperity to increase a thousand times
over. Printed in many newspapers across the country, the copy of Frank
Carpenter’s article about Seward was published in 1916. It was titled THE NEW
YORK OF THE PACIFIC: Pictures With Pen and Camera of the Terminus of Uncle
Sam’s New Railroad.” As the railroad was under construction, Seward promoters
continued to have unrealistic visions of the town’s future. When American
artist Rockwell Kent and his son lived on Fox Island during 1918-1919, the
Chamber of Commerce advertised Seward as “The New York of the Pacific.” From
New York himself, Kent found the claim amusing, which didn’t sit well with many
in town.
“It
is the terminus of Uncle Sam’s new railroad,” Carpenter wrote two years before
the Kent’s arrived, “and it will be the great ocean port of the future. Its
citizens are already comparing it with Stockholm, the capital of Sweden, which
has almost 400,000 inhabitants.” Seward’s location was similar to Stockholm,
the town’s promoters claimed, and “it will be the gateway to resources equal to
those of the four Scandinavian countries.” Norway, Finland, Sweden and Denmark
are in the same latitude as Seward, town boosters pointed out, and they have
much the same climate with a population of over twelve million. The world
around town, Carpenter reported, was that “Alaska will some day have twenty
million, and that Seward will be its chief port.”
“To
years ago not one man in a hundred could have told where Seward is located,” he
later wrote, “and I venture that nine-tenths of those who are reading this
letter will have to go to a map to find out. It is on the great Gulf of Alaska,
and about at the middle of the southern coast of the Territory. It is at the
lower end of the Kenai peninsula, about as far from Ketchikan, where the
Seattle steamers first call as the distance between New York and Cleveland…”
Published
widely throughout 1916, Carpenter’s syndicated article about Seward was
collected by his daughter after his death along with other Alaska writings and
published as Alaska, Our Northern
Wonderland (1925). As a world traveler, polished writer, and keen observer
-- Carpenter’s insights about Alaska are extremely valuable. In 1916, Seward was
six days by steamer from the Puget Sound ports. Carpenter notes to readers that
the distance was about the same as New York to Sioux City or Omaha, and that
passage cost $45. “The harbor of Seward is Resurrection Bay,” he wrote, “a
magnificent inlet, whose waters are surrounded by mountains and so guarded by
island that here in the midst of this region of terrible storms, the ships lie
as quiet and safe as they do inside the docks of Hamburg and Liverpool.”
Right
off the steamer, probably after settling at his hotel, Carpenter “tramped
through the business and residence sections to the foot of the wall of the
great mountain that rises straight up on one side of Resurrection Bay” –
probably Mount Marathon. Deciding to climb its slopes for a better view, he
pulled himself up from one tree root to another. “I now hang high above the
town and harbor, writing these notes.”
One of the Great Harbors
of the World
People in Seward were neither
unaware of Frank Carpenter’s visit to their town nor ignorant of his fame. On August 16, 1915, the Seward Gateway had
announced his arrival in a the front page story: “Frank G. Carpenter, probably
the most widely read newspaperman in the United States, is now in Seward and is
securing facts about the government railroad portion of the territory to
present to his readers who number three million…He is accompanied by his
daughter, Miss Frances Carpenter.”
Since Frances acted as her father’s
secretary, taking notes and photographs, she no doubt accompanied up Mount
Marathon. The first hundred feet were covered with trees, “some of which are twice
the girth of my waist,” Carpenter noted. “They cling to the rocks and grow
straight up, forming palisades, as it were.” The thick brush reminded him of
the lower slopes of the Himalayas. “From where I hang I can see giant ferns,
young alder trees and salmonberry bushes, the whole growing out of a deep bed
of moss into which my feet sink as though into feathers.”
Through the spruce branches,
Carpenter observed the “white glacial waters of Lowell Creek, roaring as they
rush foaming over the rocks down into Resurrection Bay. They cut through the
upper part of the town and pass under Uncle Sam’s railroad embankment which
runs round the harbor.” He spotted the Resurrection River and the mountains
across the bay – “Its peaks are of black volcanic rock, and in its hollows
nestle glaciers of pale green ice that the sun has turned into emerald.” As he
gazed southward, he noticed “mountainous islands that guard the bay and make it
almost landlocked. At first sight the land seems continuous, but there is a
narrow passage between Fox Island and the Kenai Peninsula so that the shipping
of the world can sail in and out.”
Sitting
on the slopes of Mount Marathon on a beautiful mid-August day in 1915,
Carpenter reflected on this place within the context of his many travels –
comparing it to other harbors around the world. While Frances took photographs
her father gathered his thoughts and later wrote perhaps the most admiring
description of Resurrection Bay that I have ever found. The value of this
description can’t be overstated since it came from the pen of a man who had
seen the wonders of the world. He wrote:
“I
have seen most of the great harbors of the world. I have gone through the
Dardanelles to Constantinople and have explored the beauties of the Golden
Horn. I have wound my way in and out through the landlocked channel on which
Sydney lies, and have taken photographs of the Bay of Rio de Janeiro from the
Sugarloaf and the Corcovado. The harbor of Seward is as beautiful as any of
these others and its surroundings of green, mixed with the glaciers and snow,
are like those of no other harbor on the face of the earth. The whole is a
mighty amphitheater of green lowland and blue waters and of glacier-clade
hills, roofed by the clear sky, and the white and black of the clouds.”
At
the time, Seward didn’t know how Carpenter would describe the town – positively
or negatively -- but everyone realized the importance of his words. “Mr.
Carpenter has a syndicate of thirty-five papers,” the Gateway reported. “He is
the owner of the syndicate on whose list are many of the greatest newspapers of
America. Commencing on the fist Sunday of 1916 he will begin the publication of
a series of articles on Alaska and this series will be continued for a whole
year, so that at the rate of three million readers a week it means one hundred
and fifty million pairs of eyes reading about Alaska a year from once source
alone. He came from Nome in the Victoria after having visited the southeastern
part of the territory and after having gone down the Yukon. He will go to
Anchorage overland and return to Seward.”
The
summer of 1915 was an exciting one for Seward. J.L McPherson, secretary of the
Alaska Bureau of the Seattle Chamber of Commerce, also arrived on the Victoria
with Frank and Frances Carpenter. McPherson was in Alaska to convince the towns
to combine with Seattle for the celebration of the 50th anniversary
of Alaska’s purchase from Russia coming up in 1917. The idea was to begin the
celebration in Seattle early and use the publicity to entice visitors to
journey to Alaska for more activities. Daniel J. Singer a big-game hunter and
the grandson of the founder of the Singer Sewing Machine Company, was also in
town. He hunted in Alaska every summer and had bagged everything but a brown
bear and Dall Sheep. Tom Towle would guide him around Lower Kenai Lake for
three weeks, and from there he would go to Knik where Nate
White would power boat him to Snug Harbor for brown bear. After this trip, Singer planned to write a book about his big-game hunting in Alaska.
White would power boat him to Snug Harbor for brown bear. After this trip, Singer planned to write a book about his big-game hunting in Alaska.
Many
other writers, hunters and notables arrived in Seward that summer of 1915, but
everyone’s eyes were on Frank Carpenter that August. What he wrote could make a
tremendous difference in business and settlement prospects for the territory
“a frail little wisp of a sandy-haired man”
Frank
Carpenter sought for mundane details as he traveled, the kind of everyday
minutiae that fascinate most people because we rarely notice them. “It seems
strange to think of going barefooted in Alaska,” he noticed as he wandered
through 1915 Seward on a warm mid-August afternoon. “But the children here do
that all summer long. They also go in bathing in the waters of Resurrection
Bay, and swimming parties to Lake Kenai, some distance back in the country…”
Shortly after the town was settled
in 1903, Seward experienced its first economic boom as workers and equipment
arrived for building the Alaska Central Railway. That enterprise went bankrupt
and reorganized as the Alaska Northern Railway. Discovery of gold in the
Iditarod country in 1908 helped Seward through tough economic times. But it was
the announcement in March 1915 that the town would be the terminus for the new
Government Railroad that gave Seward a second economic boost. “I am living in a
hotel which faces the harbor,” Carpenter wrote, “with a half dozen small
glaciers in sight over the way.” He could no doubt see the small cirque glacier
in the Mount Alice bowl as well as the Godwin Glacier complex. “I have two
connecting rooms, and the charge is $2.50 per
day. On the same floor is a porcelain bathtub, which I can use for 50 cents
a bath, and have hot water therewith if the order is given beforehand. My rooms
are lighted by electricity and heated by stoves.”
In its frontier years, Seward often
surprised visitors with the accommodations it offered. It astonished some
people that they could find such things in Alaska. Unlike some gold rush towns
haphazardly constructed around a strike, Seward was designed as a modern
transportation and economic center. From the start it had telephones,
electrical power, water and drainage, a newspaper, and other up to date
technologies. It was built for permanence. Local businesses were well aware of
new technological innovations and tried to incorporate them into Seward’s
infrastructure as they became available. “The hotel has no eating accommodations,”
Carpenter observed, “but I get excellent meals at the restaurants on the main
street two blocks away. The prices for meat there are about the same as those
of the States, but soup, vegetables and dessert are served with each meat order
without extra charge. In fact, one can dine fairly well for 75 cents.”
Reasonable restaurant prices also surprised visitors
As Carpenter wandered through town,
people may have been surprised at his small stature. He was thin, “tall and
spare” but full of energy – “a frail little wisp of a sandy-haired man, below
average height and weighing less than 110 pounds.” As a youth, his friends
nicknamed him “Bony Chapter.” In later years no one remembered why the
“Chapter” – perhaps it was Carpenter mispronounced. But everyone understood the
“Bony.” From his youth he wanted to be a writer. In high school and college he
headed the newspapers and yearbooks. But then tragedy struck – he became ill
and was told he wouldn’t live long. He had saved $2000 as a cub reporter and
decided to travel Europe until either his money ran out or he died. The trip
energized him. He sent travel letters to newspapers to help pay his way. His
health improved and he decided that this was how he wanted to spend his life.
That was more than 35 years earlier. Now he was traveling and documenting
Alaska.
Wandering through the 1915 Seward of
about 1500 inhabitants, Carpenter noted that the town’s public buildings
included the jail, the post office, and the cable and telegraph station – and
the large Government Railroad building, which used to be on the site of today’s
City Hall. “The Railway Commission building is devoted to the engineers and
clerks, who are managing the construction of the railway that is from here to
Fairbanks,” Carpenter wrote. “It is the old headquarters of the Alaska Northern
Railway, which the Government bought when it decided upon the present route
through the territory. It is a frame structure of two stories with a central
building one story higher. It is fairly commodious and serves well for the
purpose.” Carpenter thought the office of the United States Marshall to be the
most artistic building in the whole town. In its earlier days it had been known
as Sleem’s Hall. “It is a two-story long cabin,” Carpenter noted, “with porches
at the side, and dormer windows looking out over the roof. There are no bars
nor locks visible from the street, and it has none of the airs of a prison.” He
described the post office as a frame building on the main street and the cable
station as a one-story cottage surrounded by stumps, not far from the water.
The restored cable house sits today at he lower end of Fifth Avenue.
“It all seems old stuff to them. But it may be
news to other people.”
The Seward
business district that Frank Carpenter experienced in 1915 consisted of “two or
three streets close to the wharves.” He observed that Main Street, often called
Broadway in those days, “was macadamized and concrete pavements have been laid
on each side of it.” Fortunately, the essential character of some downtown
buildings have been maintained since Carpenter’s visit, especially from Yukon
Bar north past Brown and Hawkins up to about the Sea Bean. He described the
structures as one or two stories. “They are of boards; they stand close to the
street, with a sky line as ragged as the mouth of a child who is getting her
second installment of molars. Some of the storefronts are of galvanized iron.
Midway in one block is a frame shed consisting only of an iron roof upheld by
poles. It has chairs under it and it is labeled the ‘Royal Boot Black Parlor.’”
Carpenter
noted that the town had several banks, drug stores, hardware and dry good
stores, provision and clothing stores. “It has its saloons and billiard halls,”
he wrote. “All the stores have plate glass windows, and the goods within are
large and varied. Seward has several churches, including Catholic, Methodist,
Presbyterian and others.” He also took
note of the local Y.M.C.A.
After his European jaunt, Carpenter
worked in Washington D.C. He wanted to write what captivated him – human
interest stories – not just the political stuff. But all the ideas he pitched
to his editors were turned down. “That’s old stuff,” they told him. “Written
over and over again years ago.” That didn’t deter Carpenter. “These fellows
have been here so long that they’re tired,” he observed. “It all seems old
stuff to them. But it may be news to other people.” He decided to write what
interested him. He was an average person, he reasoned – and if it interested
him it would probably interest the average reader. He submitted a story about
how Uncle Sam got his name – old news to veteran reporters. But readers found
it fascinating and the story got syndicated all across the country. Perhaps
this young kid has something, his editors thought. Everything new was to some
people, Carpenter thought. “It wouldn’t surprise me at all if the Bible could
be newly illustrated and successfully used as a serial feature for newspapers.”
In Seward, some may thought he asked
basic, even stupid questions – but Carpenter realized how unknown this last
frontier was to most readers. Due to the economic boom in town, business
property values had trebled and quadrupled, and the same was true for
noncommercial land. “I know of one man,” Carpenter write, “who sold for $8000
lots which cost him $750. There were fifty lots in the tract. He thought he
made a good bargain, but the purchaser resold the lots at $600 a lot, or about
$30,000.”
With the
coming of the new Government Railroad, Carpenter noted that the town’s expansion
seemed to be “at the head of Resurrection Bay, where tents have been erected,
frame buildings are going up and families are locating.” Other new homesteads
appeared along ten miles up what he called the Resurrection River Valley, where
“farms the size of garden patches are being cultivated here and there.”
Some of those homesteads, he
explained, were applied for ten years earlier (1904-5), but with the creation
of the Chugach National Forest in 1907, the homesteaders were “prevented from
using the timber nearby…and as a result the greater part of the lumber of
Seward has to be brought in from Seattle, notwithstanding there are forests
right at its doors.” Lumber cost about $28 per thousand and the cost of
cordwood was high. “It is the same with coal. The people here have been paying
$18 per ton for that fuel, and that notwithstanding they are within a short
railroad haul of some of the best coalfields in the world.” Those resource
situations angered many Alaskans. The main goal of the Alaska Central Railway
back in 1903 had been to reach the northern cold fields. In 1906, with the
creation of government reserves, President Theodore Roosevelt withdrew the
coalfields from commercial use. Now, with construction of the new Government
Railroad, the goal was to immediately push the tracks north from Anchorage to
get to the coal. Seward lobbied heavily to have the old Alaska Northern Railway
tracks completed northward so that coal could be shipped to Resurrection Bay.
But that wasn’t to happen until later – a great disappointment to Seward.
Carpenter’s
observations weren’t all about business and railroad construction. He noticed
everything. “I wouldn’t walk across the street to view the Garden of Eden,” he
once said, “if I weren’t going to write about it. There’s no pleasure to me in
traveling or doing anything else unless I have a motive. If a fellow’s
obligated to write about what he sees he’s naturally bound to observe twice as
much.”
And
that’s what made Frank Carpenter a successful writer.
“It is as though Switzerland came down to the
ocean and you could ride under its glaciers and snows through valleys and
hillsides of the greenest green.”
“The people of Seward are fond of sports,”
Carpenter observed. “The country about is one of the best in the Territory for
its hunting and fishing.” Dog racing and sledding was popular in the winter,
locals told him, and Seward had tennis courts and a baseball diamond. “The
latter is laid out on the beach,” he wrote, “and during the summer the teams of
Seward and Anchorage contest there for the honors of Sough Central Alaska.”
Carpenter observed Seward’s various social circles. These included – from a
class perspective -- the professional and business leaders and their families
at the top followed by laborers and blue-collar workers which included the
transients, and the ladies and madams of Seward’s “Red-Light District” which
the city council had recently segregated into a line of houses along Alley B --
once located along a line of trees near the entrance to the Institute of Marine
Science Rae Building.
The
attention Frank Carpenter gave Seward with his article represented just what
the town sought. A new town along Ship Creek called Anchorage was booming. At
the time, and no one imagined it would someday overshadow Seward. As the
headlines to Carpenter’s story about Seward proclaimed, Seward saw itself in
1915 as the future New York of the Pacific now that the Interior would be
opened with the new Government Railroad.
After
exploring Seward, Carpenter was off to explore the Kenai Peninsula. The federal
government had purchased the Alaska Northern Railway and the tracks ran to Mile
71, rough as they were. “A ride over the railroad from Seward north to Kenai
Lake is one of the wonder trips of the world,” Carpenter noted. “You go up the valley which ends in
Resurrection Bay amid most magnificent mountains. The mountains begin right at
the sea. It is as though Switzerland came down to the ocean and you could ride
under its glaciers and snows through valleys and hillsides of the greenest
green.” The rushing streams and winding lakes thrilled him. “There are open
parks made by nature and in them ferns and wild flowers and grass as high as
our waist. The trees on the hillsides are largely spruce and the ozonic air of
Alaska carries the sweet smell of the pines into your lungs.”
Carpenter
stopped at Bear Lake to look around. “It is only six miles from Seward and is
the midst of a natural park surrounded by snowcapped mountains on the sides of
which hang glaciers of sapphire amid forests of emerald. The place is now in
the wild. In the future it will have an automobile road into Seward, and one
can then go back and forth in a quarter of an hour. The region is now known
Woodrow Park, named after the president.” In 1916, the year Carpenter’s Alaska
articles ran nationwide, Woodrow Park would become a heavily marketed real
estate commodity. People could auto out there or take the train roundtrip for
55 cents. If they didn’t want to take their own food, Mrs. J.J. Johnson was ready
to serve them lunch. The railroad charged $1.85 roundtrip for those who wanted
to excursion out to Kenai Lake, where Mrs. Dabney would serve them lunch at the
Roosevelt Roadhouse.
By
1923 when the Alaska Railroad was completed the mothers of four families at
Woodrow had enough children to apply for a school. Territorial Gov. Scott Bone
and Education Commissioner Lester D. Henderson approved the request. The
LaRochelle lumber mill at Mile 3 donated lumber for the floor and roof, the
Alaska Engineer Commission offered support material, and many Seward citizens
gave books, pictures and other items. The school planned to open on Sept. 10,
1924 with ten students and teacher Mrs. W.C. Donaldson of Anchorage.
“Going
northward you pass little homesteads which have been cut out of the woods,”
Carpenter observed. “They are few and far between, and the patches of
cultivation are kitchen gardens in size. At Mile 12 I saw an abandoned log
cabin and was told that it had been occupied last summer by some city chaps who
had come there to hunt. They had expected to stay a week or ten days but they
remained more than two months. Nevertheless, their actual cost outlay for food
during that time was less than $10. They spent $5 for flour, potatoes and
coffee, and the rest of their food was the fish, game and berries they found in
the woods.”
The
scenery at Kenai Lake also reminded him of Switzerland. “The mountains are
snowcapped,” he wrote, “and high up on the sides of the green, below the snow
line, you can see the trails made by the mountain sheep. The lake is as clear
as crystal, and it mirrors its surroundings.”
At
Mile 29 he stopped at Oscar Christiansen’s roadhouse. “Oscar is a Swede who has
a half-dozen horses which he rents out for all that the traffic will bear. He
charged me $16 a day for two horses and a guide. Before leaving I dined at the
roadhouse. The meat was moose meat or Alaska beef cooked over the coals by a
six-foot pioneer. His kitchen stove was a range made at Hamilton, {Ohio}, and
in the living room adjoining were chairs and tables and a rosewood Victrola
with several dozen records on top. Around the wall were spring beds. The stove
of the living room was a section of hydraulic pipe as big around as a flour
barrel, with legs of gas pipe. It was long enough to take a whole stick of cord
wood.”
The
next morning, he and his guide headed to Sunrise on horseback.
“I despair of making you see the wonderful
beauties of the {Kenai}Peninsula,”
After
spending the night at Oscar Christianson’s roadhouse at Mile 29, Frank
Carpenter and his daughter, Frances, left by horseback for Sunrise. “The horses
were fairly good, but the saddles were excruciating,” he complained. “I am
accustomed to riding. I cover about 1,500 miles every winter…I have an English
saddle and can be on a horse for hours without tiring. It was different in this
ride across Kenai. Our horses were broad-backed Percherons, and the saddles
were a high-pommeled variety, so made that they threw one far to the front. It
was like sitting on a sawbuck with ill-fitting stirrups. It brought an entire
new set of muscles into play and gave me the sensations and pains of the man
who takes a long ride for the first time…when we came to a mining camp, after
fifteen hours in the saddle, I was so stiff that I had to be lifted from the
horse. The next day I walked part of the way and had to be lifted off and on to
the horse whenever I road.”
Carpenter
and his daughter started off with plans to meet the guide at an agreed upon
spot, but the guide didn’t show up and they got lost. When they all finally met
up, the guide took them along “the sides of cliffs, over a trail where the
forest fires had made it exceedingly dangerous, and where we had to jump over
logs in the darkness with no telling what might be on the other side.” When
they reached Sunrise, Carpenter slept well before transcribing the notes he
took during the trip. Despite the rough journey, he was awed by the scenery. “I
despair of making you see the wonderful beauties of the peninsula,” he wrote.
He
marveled at the little valleys, the grandest mountains, the waterfalls, and the
clear crystal rushing streams where “the great red salmon were battling against
the current, making their way over the rocks and floating brushwood.” They were
“the color of beefsteaks,” and resembled “streaks of raw meat flying along
through the water.” He met a man fishing who had caught twenty-seven trout in
less than an hour, “pulling them out as fast as he could throw in a line.” In
the smaller streams, Carpenter realized he could easily catch salmon and
grayling with his hands.
The
variety of scenic colors astounded him, and he wished he had photographed them.
He recorded the bright red high and low bush cranberries, the deep purple
blueberries, the pale lemon salmon berries and the carpets of wildflowers.
“They made me think of the paintings of the latest German art schools,” he
observed, “where the pigment is laid on in great patches with such striking
effects of light and shade.” Forest fires had cleared spaces in the fertile
valleys and he imagined them populated with farms. He passed through forests of
spruce, cottonwood and birch, and meadows where the grasses reached to his
shoulders. “This grass was as green as that of the Nile Valley,” he noted, “and
where the forest fires had destroyed the trees they wandered through beds of
fireweed, making vast sheets of green dusted with pink.” Some fireweed stalks
measured six to eight feet tall, and later in Sunrise he found some nine feet
in height.
Carpenter
described eating grouse and ptarmigan, spotting brown bear, porcupine, sheep
and goats. “The Kenai Peninsula has some of the best moose pastures of Alaska,”
he wrote. “It has hundreds of moose and the moose are increasing in numbers
notwithstanding the hunters who come here to shoot big game and carry home the
antlers as trophies. Once at Sunrise, he feasted on fresh game. “Most of the
food used here comes from wild,” he learned. “It can be had for the taking and
this makes the cost of living comparatively cheap.” One miner he met said he
and his partner survived two weeks on $1.80 worth of flour and bacon. Fish and
game they supplied them with the rest. While in Sunrise he waited for a boat to
take him out into Turnagain Arm, Cook inlet and up Knik Arm to Anchorage.
“Sunrise has perhaps twenty log cabins,” he wrote. “In one is a general store,
kept by an old German and another is Arno Liebischer’s roadhouse, where I am
living.” Sunrise had passed its heyday by 1915. Most of its cabins were empty.
“They were built when Sunrise was the center of a mining excitement.” While
Carpenter rested there, old prospectors were washing the sands of Six Mile
River and other creeks about for gold. “To-day a dredge made in Seattle is
turning up the bed of the river, but the profits are little,” he observed.
“Farther up the river is Duncan Stewart’s mining camp, where they are dredging
at a profit and where are quartz mines said to be good.”
Seward
was no doubt pleased when Frank Carpenter’s articles appeared throughout the
country in 1916. The town couldn’t have asked for better promotion, for itself,
the Alaska Railroad, and the entire Kenai Peninsula. When the U.S. entered the Great War in April
1917, railroad construction slowed down, but it picked up after the armistice
of November 11, 1918 and continue until the railroad’s official completion in
July 1923 with President Warren G. Harding’s visit to the territory. That same
year, with the help of his daughter Frances, Carpenter collected all his Alaska
articles and published them in a book called Alaska: Our Northern Wonderland.
The
book received excellent reviews. The Boston
Transcript wrote: “It is a pity that every American, especially every
school child, cannot read Frank Carpenter’s Alaska:
Our Northern Wonderland,” for even a hurried perusal of this remarkable,
interesting and valuable narrative…discloses the stupendous ignorance of our
people of one of the riches empires beneath the flag. It is scarcely an
exaggeration to say that the average educated America has a more intelligent
conception of India than of Alaska.”
The
year after his Alaska book was published, while on his third round-the-world
trip, Frank Carpenter died in Nanking, China. Frances continued to publish and
promote her father’s work. She
eventually donated 16,000 photographs and 7,000 negatives to the Library of
Congress – including 5000 Alaska images. Frances died in 1972.
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